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The RD is a two-stroke motorcycle produced by Yamaha from to The engine is an air-cooledparallel twinsix-speed in some markets, such as the UK, the first model was sold in five-speed formreed valve -equipped intake tract two-stroke engine. The bike is usually referred to as a sport bike. All models were equipped with "Autolube" automatic oil injection, relieving the user from the need to mix gasoline and two-stroke oil. Rim sizes are 18" WM2 1.

In the UK, rim sizes were 1.

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Brakes are: single front disc brake and a rear drum brake, a combination described by Cycle Magazine as the best in its class. The frames appear similar, side by side, with the street frame adorned with many brackets for the street equipment.

The weight difference is substantial though, with the street-going RD frame weighing almost twice as much as the "TZ" roadrace race frame. A licensed version of the RDB was assembled in India between — by Escorts group under the brand name Rajdoot It did not repeat the success of the RDB in the Indian market, which some attribute to a high purchase price and poor fuel efficiency.

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Brakes are: mm dia drum brakes front internal expansion twin leading type and rear single internal expansion. The RD was the first sporting motorcycle built in India, and it still enjoys cult status, with many RD clubs around the country. Around were made at the end of From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Main article: Rajdoot Classic Superbikes From Around the World.

Motorcycle Classics. Retrieved Yamaha motorcycles. Category Commons. Categories : Yamaha motorcycles Motorcycles introduced in Standard motorcycles Two-stroke motorcycles Motorcycles powered by straight-twin engines. Hidden categories: All articles with unsourced statements Articles with unsourced statements from June Commons category link from Wikidata.

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Namespaces Article Talk. Views Read Edit View history. In other projects Wikimedia Commons. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Yamaha Corporation.

Sport bike. Tubular twin cradle [1].Make Yamaha. I am so tempted to buy this bike myself am listing for a good friend who is and has been a suzuki guy since the 70's, And He wants it to go to someone who will appreciate and not chop it up. Its all original barn find all he did was get it running and it runs super and rides great. Yes thats the original paint ect! Id say with a few hours elbow grease with mothers polish and chrome cleaner she would look pretty much new theres zero rust under the seat pan unheard of!

Price is more than fair.

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Really id enjoy buying this bike to put in my living room just to look at it. But what fun would it be to ride it to shows ect or just step back in time and ride it everyday. I bet you could even show some newer crotch rockets a thing or two lol. Shes sweet shes an awesome runner and she has a clear title, last on the road in NY shes in WI now. You cant go wrong for the money. Shes pretty much like a new bike. I bet she'd even win a few trophies.

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Ask all questions before you buy. Need Anyways im old school and so is friend im selling for. Hand shake and deal kinda guys. And once again boy does this bike look tempting, I just may end auction at anytime and buy it myself?


I reserve the right to end auction at anytime as word of mouth it may sell local. Model RD I am selling my pride and joy to fund another project a RD This bike is a full blown custom. Almost nothing is stock.

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I did ALL of the work myself, except paint. All motor work, welding, fabrication, electrical etc was done by myself. I am a machinist and fabricator by trade. Hydraulic clutch.

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Hyabusa master cyl and slave cyl IIRC excellent function. Self adjusting. Dual front discs, drilled, all Yamaha parts except brake lines ss and hyabusa master cyl.

Rebuilt front forks. Have new progressive springs, not installed yet. Included in sale.All content copyright Jon Wallis Present. No photograph or text from this article can be reproduced without prior permission from Jon Wallis.

As such all text on this page is protected by enforceable copyright.

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Regarding the pictures on this page - Jon Wallis either owns the rights to these pictures, has permission to use these pictures or has taken every step possible to contact the owner of any borrowed pictures — As such all pictures on this page are protected by enforceable copyright. With that in mind, I sat down and began to formulate a plan of what I actually wanted as the motive power this bike As standard the Athena kit has an outlet that runs straight out to the front, i.

Some builders had cut and threaded the old outlet, then fitted an oil or plumbing fitting; some had welded and some had used 90Degree bend hose and then spaced their radiator forward a little. I opted for having an alloy 90Degree outlet Tig welded on to a the original outlet once it was cut down.

This appeared to be a simple solution, and would cost much the same as the other options. Initially I worried that it might need skimming which would be a disaster, but Roger from Wicked advised me to fit it and then torque it again once it was hot.

I did this as so far it has been fine. This was done with a set of burrs in a Dremel which made short work of cutting the cases to match the transfer ports after the shapes and sizes were transferred using a gasket, that had previously been carefully cut to match the cylinder, as a template. I now have awe for the tuners who do this stuff daily The rough work was followed up with a clean up with a sanding roll but the finish is not that smooth, some say that turbulence is good for torque, some says it should be smooth With the head back and the other engine parts now arrived, the engine build up could start.

I bought from a wrecker as a mostly intact bottom end, as amazingly it had no case damage. Sadly pretty much unheard of these days over here in Australia and probably elsewhere too!

Whilst waiting for the head to come back the bottom case half had a clean up in the blasting cabinet, then both cases received a couple of very thorough cleans and rinses and I splashed a bit of paint on the top case.

In the top half I added a 31k rev counter drive as I wanted to use the LC clocks, at least initially. Naturally I fitted a new clutch arm bearing and seal, as these are often worn and its simpler to do these now than later. Dropping the top onto the bottom after a smear of Threebond and its already starting to look like something useful!

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Delving into the box of parts I received with this engine I grabbed out the clutch basket and checked the movement in the rubber cushions and found them to be sloppy Luckily I have another engine so I robbed a better one from that, with the view that I might change up to something more sexy if the standard item doesn't cope with the power.

The better of the two baskets had some notches on the tangs of the basket of course Don't they all by now!? So out with the trusty Dremel and I tidied up the 'teeth'. I wasn't aiming to make them flat as such, just knock off the high points and steps to stop the plates catching in use. I not convinced these plates and springs will cope with the power, but I had them already and decided to start there and see how it goes.

Amusingly, when I bought the clutch plates I was told I was getting a good deal as I was getting the banshee plates which were 'asymmetrically the same' unlike the normal plates, and hence 'easier to fit'. When I finally opened the box over a year later they are just normal plates No huge deal to fit of course, but mildly amusing that I didn't check and mildly annoying that I may have paid for something I didn't get, how green I was back when I was doing my original orders Anyway my mistakes aside I soaked the plates in oil and fitted up the parts and then to ensure the clutch pusher doesn't weld itself to the ball I fitted an aftermarket clutch pusher with a pancake bearing, again from Wicked.

Continuing with cool aftermarket parts I also fitted one of the RDLCCrazy natty allen key drain plugs as well in the hope I can drain the oil without having to remove the pipes, sure my pipes are pretty fat, but one can hope! To finish off the oily bits I added a NOS clutch cover. One thing about these covers and maybe also any other cover you might be re-fitting if you have the waterpump offSchool is out and the cool kids, the ones with the feathered rocker hair, Led Zeppelin T-shirts and worn jeans, are headed for the parking lot.

Two swift kicks and a Yamaha RD chatters into life. That ring-ding-ding sound is unmistakable as the helmetless owner threads his way through the after-school traffic, narrowly missing a mother driving her daughter home.

Mother is appalled. Daughter smiles. She is thinking about sneaking out of the house to meet that insolent creature on his bad boy bike. It was relatively cheap, relatively easy to work on and fast through the twisties.

Unlike the many stoplight-to-stoplight dragsters of the early Seventies that had to be muscled through corners, the RD was light and flickable, just the thing an aspiring racer needed to hone cornering skills.

Unfortunately, teenage racers are not the best at caring for their toys. Our feature RD is one of the few lucky ones. Mostly original and in excellent running shape, it was bought new by an engineer, who kept it until just a year ago when he sold it to classic Japanese motorcycle collector Zeki, who treasures it because it makes him feel like a kid again — a bad kid. Although Yamaha is now the second largest motorcycle manufacturer in the world, in the early s it was just one of a group of Japanese manufacturers struggling to catch Honda, the industry leader.

In Yamaha introduced the YD3, a cc sporting 2-stroke twin with electric start. A successful export, it encouraged Yamaha to concentrate on 2-strokes, with an eye toward aspiring club racers. Although 2-strokes had a power advantage over their 4-stroke brethren, they did have a major drawback, and that was the need to mix oil with the gas, an inconvenient and sometimes messy chore. InYamaha introduced the Autolube system, which pumped oil from a tank to mix with the gas going into the crankcase.

It was an innovation others would follow. Both of these bikes were geared towards sporty performance, and a production racing version of the YDS5, the TD1C, proved a winner on the track and was joined two years later by the cc TR2. Word got around that these Yamaha racers could be uncrated and pushed directly onto the starting line, no expensive setup required.

Better yet, the Yamaha racers often beat much bigger machines. When Yamaha came out with the light and reliable DT1 cc trail bike inoffroad enthusiasts were added to the crowd of Yamaha boosters.

By the late s, Yamaha was selling enough bikes to challenge Honda for leadership of the Japanese motorcycle industry. Armed with feedback from the production racing crowd, Yamaha engineers updated the YR1, improving the styling for good measure. The result was the 35 horsepower R5, which appeared in and was even more successful than the YR1.

But the best was yet to come. The RD, which started hitting showrooms in earlywas the next step up. This cc twin took a lot of its basic design from the Yamaha production racers, including the double cradle frame and the 2-stroke engine.

Unlike 4-stroke valves, reed valves are inserts in the intake tract of 2-stroke engines that allow gas and air to flow one way only. The RD also featured an additional port in the induction system.

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At the same time that the preheated compressed mix entered the combustion chamber from the crankcase, an extra, small shot of fuel and air was inducted. Yamaha literature claimed that this improved combustion chamber filling and scavenging, and cooled the piston crown.

Not bad for a The reed valve system also improved gas consumption, a constant problem for Seventies 2-strokes. Period tests varied between 35 and 40mpg.

Power, in order to be usable, especially rounding a curve, must be transmitted to the ground in an organized way. Here, the Yamaha had the benefit of a stiff frame with additional bracing, and gussets around the swingarm and steering head. Power must also be controllable.Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Dismiss Notice. Become a site supporter for a free shirt and ad free viewing. Hi, just bought a Yamaha RD My question is.

What oil should I use for the engine? Thanks in advance. FJRider likes this. RodTMar 5, I use Yamalube 2T in my old Yamaha's autolube system and it does a great job. Make sure you bleed the oil pump before you run the bike. If you took the autolube off, than premix the yamalube at and you should be fine. I use E-bay for alot of stuff, and also Speed and sport.

Bike bandit has NOS yamaha partsbut it is limited. I do not remember what the chain number is but you should be able to look it up on the internet. ADV Sponsors. Foot draggerMar 5, Joined: Dec 27, Oddometer: 22, Location: chico,just below rag dump nor-cal.

That's an R5,not an RD. R5 has no reed valves in the intake,no disc brake on front,must be a few other things. If youve never had a 2 stroke it will be a learning experience. Dont run it too lean,ask an expert if your in doubt.

Personally I have no idea of what that is or what it does.! It has sat ever since. It now needs a major cleaning. I did put a new battery in it and she still fires right up if you spray fuel in her. All bushings, bearings, seals, piston rings, pistons, tires and tubes, hoses, points, plugs, clamps, etc have all been replaced.

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The nuts and bolts were switched to stainless in most spots. Even has new grease fittings. I have the tool kit, owners manual, shop manual and key. I also have some extra coils, fuel lines a brand new battery and a spare harness. Everything was repainted or cleaned.

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It needs a couple of things to finish it up. It was drained and winterized before storage.Remember Me? Sea Doo. Jet Boat. Blacktip Jetsports. Riding Gear. Trailer Parts. Gift Certificates. Jet Ski Lanyards. Jet Ski Traction Mats.

PWC Seat Covers. PWC Covers. PWC Dry Bags. Jet Ski Boarding Steps. Results 1 to 4 of 4. Thread: Converting from oil injection to premix help. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Converting from oil injection to premix help I have a sx i want to convert from oil injection to premix. I just rebuilt it and i have heard too many horror stories!

Could someone give me a quick step by step on how to do the conversion? Thanks alot! Re: Converting from oil injection to premix help Clip and plug the oil injection line at the intake so it doesn't become an air leak.

I used an automotive vacuum line plug on my 's intake Disable the oil pump specificly how for the sx I don't know Mix 1 pint of quality 2-stroke oil with every 5 gallons of gasoline. Sold it. Re: Converting from oil injection to premix help alright thanks for the help! Re: Converting from oil injection to premix help i think it is a good idea to switch to premix, but this post might change your mind. Best price and Service, Call and let me Prove it!

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Carb Rebuild Kits. Pump Parts. All times are GMT The time now is PM. All rights reserved. All Material Copyright Watercraft Superstore.

Seller Buyer Product Feedback Register. Not a member yet? Register Now!Yamaha RD Carburetor Jetting. Correct carburetor jetting is important for proper combustion. If the carb is jetted too lean the combustion temperature could get too hot resulting in either a seized piston, or a hole melted right through the top.

Just one size too lean is all it takes for possible disaster, therefore we offer you some guidelines that you want to consider as you refer to them. HVCcycle is in no way responsible for any damage to your motor as a result of applying any of our advice or tuning specs. If you need to do it yourself to save the money, just be willing to be learn and accept the consequences of a piston failure.

Remember, you seize or burn-down, it's your fault! What is jetting? Carburetor adjustments, usually involving changing of quickly-removable metering orifices called jets. Besides the jets, needle position adjustment, or changing, as well as changing slides are all part of the adjustments available. Why the need for jetting in the first place? Any time a modification is made to the motor, such as install a different exhaust system, or air filter, you will need to re-jet the carbs to compensate for the difference in airflow.

If air flow is enhanced, fuel flow must be adjusted accordingly. The optimum air fuel ratio is for gasoline. It has to be just right. When exhaust gas temperature is optimum, degrees F, the spark plug insulator will be a light tan color. Get familiar with exhaust note changes when jetting and get used to checking your plugs often.

They are windows into your engine's soul. Other factors requiring jetting adjustments are changes in air density, altitude as well as types of fuel. Get a Sudco Mikuni tuning manual if you don't feel real comfortable with carbs. It's worth it's weight in gold. Application Stock Porting. Remember, use these specs at your own risk!


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